Honda Pcx 150 Repair Manual
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Faulty TPS-IAC-MAP-ETS-ISP sensor and or o-ring. Throttle plate idle stop adjuster has shifted. Throttle plate shaft cracked-broken-faulty o-rings. Throttle body to cylinder head seals/gaskets leaking.
Throttle cables improperly adjusted-damaged-kinked etc. Vacuum lines cracked or broken or missing. Damaged or faulty spark plugs. Dirty or damaged fuel injector.
Faulty fuel tuner or out of adjustment. For more information about your question and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $30 Answered 23 hours ago. Hi, Ricky, the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $30 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Jan 07, 2018. Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on 'DRACHMA' and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision. Bearings-SCREECH 2.
Honda PCX OWNER’S MANUAL. When service is required, remember that your Honda dealer knows your scooter best. Honda PCX150i Owners Manual. EBooks Manual Book Honda Pcx are currently available in various formats. 2013 honda pcx150 pcx 150 service shop repair manual set w parts catalog.
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Belts-CHIRP 3. Brake Rotors-BUZZ 4. Cam Chains-CLICKIT 5. Clutches-CHATTER 6. Cylinders-PING 7. Fairing Panels-WHISTLE 8.
Fenders-SCRAPE 9. Fronk Forks-Plunk 10. Fuel pumps-WHIRR 11.
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Gears-WHINE 12. Head Gasket-HISS 13. Hydraulic Lifters-TAP 14. Instrument Clusters-BUZZING 15.
Kick Starter-GRINDS 16. Pistons-SLAP 17. Power Valves-CLINK& RATTLE 18.
Radiators-GURGLE 19. Rear Chains-RATTLE 20. Rear Shocks-SQUEAK 21.
Relays-CLICK&BUZZ 22. Shaft Drives-WHIRR 23. Shifting Trans-CLUNK 24. Solid Lifters-TICK 25. Speedometers-bzzz 26. Starters-CLICK 27. Rods Go-KNOCK-KNOCK-who's there, it's me '.'
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $30 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Dec 07, 2017. Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are 'FREE' to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages.
The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download for viewing or printing. To download your manual please click on the blue links below.
Good luck and have a wonderful day Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Sep 08, 2017. Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose. Upper engine mounting bracket loose. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
Honda Pcx 150 Repair Manual
Broken frame. Stabilizer links worn or loose. Rubber mounts loose or worn. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
Front engine mounting bolts loose. Worn out or broken universal joint on shaft drive models. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Aug 03, 2017. Hi, Wayne and the usual suspects are: 1.
Honda Pcx 150 Top Speed
Wheels and or tires worn or damaged. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
Upper engine mounting bracket loose. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted. Broken frame.
Stabilizer links worn or loose. Rubber mounts loose or worn. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose. Front engine mounting bolts loose. Worn out or broken universal joint on shaft drive models.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Jul 24, 2017.
Hi, Steven for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Nov 09, 2015.
Hi, Pamintuan and the usual suspects are: 1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled. Spark plug cables in bad condition. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
Water or dirt in the carburetor. Intake air leak.
Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow. Choke valve inoperative. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure). Faulty ignition coil. Valves sticking. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Answered 12 hours ago. Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Fouled spark plugs. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module. Faulty pulse coil. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
Faulty ignition switch. Tilt sensor needs a reset. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Answered 22 hours ago.
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections. Faulty ignition coil and or connections. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets 8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system. Improper valve clearance (too tight). Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $15 Answered 23 hours ago. Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the 'AIR FUEL' mixture screw adjustment 'ONLY' manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber.
The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines: 1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Answered 23 hours ago.