Tuff Torq Hd K46 Manual
38 watching; ; 11 sold. This is a Genuine OEM Tuff Torq K46 Center Section Pump repair kit, part number 1A646099591. Includes instructions.
Oil Maintenance Procedures for Residential IHT units with External Expansion Tank Designed to be trouble-free Normally the Residential IHT (K46), that is featured in many tractor & rider models, does not require any servicing for the life of the vehicle. However, if there is a desire to check or replace oil, it may be necessary to remove the transaxle from the vehicle to access the black cap located under the pulley & fan. Due to the design of our units, Maintenance Overview First, remove the transaxle from the vehicle following OEM instructions. After placing the transaxle on a bench surface remove the fan & pulley and pry open the black cap and remove magnet (see Fig #1). Invert transaxle to allow oil to drain from case through the port under black cap.
Tuff Torq K46 Oil Maintenance – Figure 1 Refill transmission case with oil through same port to near top of case. Tuff Torq® recommends refilling transmission with Tuff Torq® hydrostatic oil, available from our service and aftermarket department. Reinstall magnet & cap. While reinstalling the fan & pulley on drive shaft be sure to place all components in the same order as they were removed. In heavy usage applications oil changing is recommended after the 1st 50 hours of operation and every 200 hours, thereafter.
The filter should never require changing unless the transaxle is removed from the tractor or rider and opened for repairs. Finally, after purging the transaxle of air, add additional oil through tank opening (under vent valve) to recommended oil level. (see Figure #2 below for recommended oil level). For more information, or to order your service parts and accessories, please visit our. For technical support, you can call our service team at (866) 572-3441. Hello I have a K46A transaxle and I took it off the unit as it would run for 20 minutes and then stop moving.
I let it rest for 20 minutes after the oil cooled down and then the unit would run for another 20 minutes. I just saw a video that showed how to drain the oil from it and noticed that there was hardly any oil in the unit, and whatever I was adding thru the air vent would come out after it heated up. Could it just be that I need to add oil to the unit and put it back together instead of rebuilding it? The unit does not whine or make noises when it moves but after 20 minutes it stops. Thanks for your advice! I have a Craftsman Garden Tractor. It works fine for the last 10 seasons.
It started to stop and transaxle winning before it climbed the hill but it cut grasses fine in flat area in 11st season. I removed the transaxle from the tractor today. This is the info from the transaxle: TUFF TORQ 7A632084620 S/N: 66Y – 0002589 HOP PN: 199973 The reservoir has only small oil left in the tank. However, I have not drain the oil from the transaxle yet. There is no leak (as far as I can see from the housing. I would like to change and refill the transaxle fluid. What type of fluid it uses and how much?
The reservoir has marks and show the level of fluid. However, there is no dip stick on the transaxle housing. How do I know that it is the right amount of fluid?
I will greatly appreciate any info that you can provide. Best regards.
Hello Mr DuBan, It sounds like you need an oil change in your transmission to be sure of what you are dealing with. It can make the transmission run again but it is not a guarantee to fix the issue. But it is a great first step in finding the problem. When removing the transmission from the tractor you want to pay particular attention to the linkage, fan, and all the pulleys on the tractor. By checking these external issues you are making sure that they get eliminated from the list of possible issues.
If all is well with the externals, change the oil and see if it helps. If it does, Great, then you had an issue with oil viscosity. If it does not get better or only slightly then you have wear on the internal hydraulic parts that the oil cannot make up for and a repair kit is what you need to replace the worn parts to get your transmission running like new again. You can always contact the service departments friendly service techs at 866.572.3441 or email. Hello Mr Robbins, Most K46s hold 2.4 Quarts, however, there are a few that only hold 2 Quarts. It depends on whether or not the K46 in question has an external reservoir or an internal one. The internal reservoir units hold more oil.the rule of thumb is that the sealing cap with the magnet underneath of it is the easiest thing to look at for oil level.
Keep the oil level at 1/3 to 1/2 up the magnet and that will be a good level for the transmission. And as always, if you have more questions you can contact the helpful techs in the service department by phone or email at or 866.572.3441. Hello, Adding drain bolts to K46s that do not have them can be a problem waiting to happen and in reality not save you much time at all. The problem is having to pull off the lower case off to drill and tap for the drain bolt holes and now you have introduced a new way for the transmission to leak oil.
Time is not really saved due to the fact you would have to still have to remove the transmission from the tractor to put the oil in the unit. We try to talk owners out of doing it for those reasons.
However, you can always contact the friendly techs in the Tuff Torq Service Department by Phone: 866.572.3441 and Email:salessrvc@tufftoq.com if you have any further questions or for more clarity. Hi Guys, I have an L110 John Deere and had a leaking seal on the input shaft.
I removed the trans-axle and brought it to my local dealer for replacement. After installing it there is no grunt in the machine. It cannot even climb a small hill. I removed it again and found the oil level a bit low so I topped it up with about a cup of suitable oil.
Could this be the problem, ie. If I need to rebuild the pump assembly/motor can you supply a rebuild kit? I am in Australia and find the John Deere people here only want to sell a complete trans-axle.
McCallum, You should check all the external things first. Making sure the control lever is being pushed and pulled through the whole arc that it can travel. Also, you should check the input shaft and the pulley making sure that the pulley is turning the input shaft.
After that, you should check all the pulleys from the engine on to make sure you do not have a problem that way. If those things are all good then you might want to open the transmission and check the machined faces of the center case. Paying particular attention to the areas between the ports. That is where the oil can escape and not hold pressure and that loss of pressure is the reason you could be experiencing low power.
As always, you can call the service department to talk to the friendly techs at 866.572.3441 and see if they can help troubleshoot your issue. I just inherited an 02 John Deere LTR 180 with a tuff torq K46 transaxle. Everything is working fine but there is a little humming noise when I engage the transaxle. The article above seems to contradict itself in regards to an oil change. First paragraph says “Normally the Strider™ transaxle (K46), that is featured in many tractor & rider models, does not require any servicing for the life of the vehicle.” Then “In heavy usage applications oil changing is recommended after the 1st 50 hours of operation and every 200 hours, thereafter.” What is “heavy usage?” and should I take the transaxle out and change the fluid?
Thank you so much! I am having problems with my John Deere L130 tractor transmission slipping. Belt and pulleys are new. My tractor is a 2004 and is in very good condition. If I remove the transmission and change the oil can I drain most of the old oil from the top plug. I have observed someone trying to suck out the oil but he only got about a pint out.
I may end up rebuilding or replacing the transmission but I would like to try oil first. If I have to replace the transmission should I upgrade to a k66 or another k46. If I have to replace the transmission I will contact you for what transmission will fit my tractor.
Welcome to the The Garage Journal Board forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please,!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact. OK guys, I just finished reading a 'Lazarus' post (one resurrected from the dead) from 2013 regarding lawn tractor replacement due to bad transmission. A short search will yield numerous complaints about this 'defective' item that's probably used in 60% of riding mowers across all brands. Seems funny as I'm about to embark on servicing one of those 'unserviceable' Tuff-Torq K46 transmissions on my 2012 Husqvarna YTH22V42. After doing some research and looking at some youtube videos on the subject, this project seems to have a higher P.I.T.A.
Factor than difficulty factor. I purchased a seal kit (about $45) from Tuff-Torq as well as a drain plug kit. My plan is to drop said transmission, open and drain same, inspect for any obvious wear, spotface, drill & tap the lower cover for the two drain plugs and refill with the correct fluid (Mobil-1 5w-50 synthetic). According to the manufacturer of this tranny, the factory fluid should be changed after 50 hours, and then every 150 hours or so. They also told me that the tractor manufacturers install straight conventional 10w-30 oil (for cost savings) into the dry transmissions, and specified the drain plugs be omitted (for additional cost savings), as they're in the business of selling tractors/mowers and this ensures a steady supply of customers looking to replace their bad mower. Anyway, I'll be starting this project next week and will report my results here then.
I'm hoping you're embarking on this adventure before your hydrostat is having problems. If it's having problems I'd say don't do the rebuild. I did one at 200 hours and now at 250 hours I'm having trouble going up any sort of incline again (definitely not worth the expense).
If you're doing this as a preventative measure, I wish you the best of luck. They're fairly easy to remove and take apart. Not overly finicky to put back together.
If you've watched a YouTube video, you should be good to go. Mine has about 325 hours and seems OK except for a bit of 'growling'. I'm definitely doing as a preventative measure, as I plan on keeping this thing around for a few more years.
My gas tank is up forward, so if I need to change the oil in the future, all I'll need to do is pull out the battery box for full access to the fill plug, then unscrew the drain plugs I'm installing and that will be it. Easy peesy - any way, that's the plan. Mine has about 325 hours and seems OK except for a bit of 'growling'. I'm definitely doing as a preventative measure, as I plan on keeping this thing around for a few more years. My gas tank is up forward, so if I need to change the oil in the future, all I'll need to do is pull out the battery box for full access to the fill plug, then unscrew the drain plugs I'm installing and that will be it. Easy peesy - any way, that's the plan.
If your unit is growling you may get it open and find wear on some of the gears. If the gears need replacement, I'd definitely consider doing that. I wouldn't waste your money replacing the pump though. I have a 2003 John Deere L120 with same trans and it has 63 hrs on it and I paid $300 for it and the guy was complaining about it over heating and having to let it sit for 30 min. I have a 1 acre yard and it has never happened to me and it pulls up hill fine.
I decided a couple weeks ago to check the oil and it was low so I filled it up with a funnel with a piece of hose attached and it worked great but.Lol for some reason maybe seals I had a puddle of oil under it the next day so now this is my issue and I'd say the problem. It only holds maybe 50% of how much it's supposed to and I used 10w30 I think don't remember could have used 5w20 as I have both on hand. I have read about all the issues guys have had with thier mower and I guess my issues could be worst knock on wood. I had just mentioned the issue with these trans in another post as its probably better to buy a mower with a different trans like the k66. Best of luck to you!
If your unit is growling you may get it open and find wear on some of the gears. If the gears need replacement, I'd definitely consider doing that. I wouldn't waste your money replacing the pump though. Understood completely. I was going to order the pump and motor beforehand, but in the course of my research, read that some guys just polished up the pistons in the motor and pump and were 'back to the races'.
Another guy found his differential gears ground up in pieces, but pump and motor were fine. Tuff-Torq has a re-stocking charge of about 25% and shipping ain't cheap (but I am!), so open it up and inspect will be first on the list. If nothing major is wrong, in goes the new filter, drain plugs and Mobil-1 5w-50 and it's mowing time. Day 1 Remove and inspect: Well, good things and bad things happened. The bad things were that the wheels were rusted on to the axles. Two hours of penetrating oil, brass drift and engineers hammering finally broke them loose.
In all fairness, if I still had my shop, I could have made up a simple wheel puller that would have done the job, but I had to channel my 'Inner McGiver' to get things done and brute force won out in the long run. Good news: My tranny looks to be in superb shape mechanically speaking. No piles of gear chips / debris, only a very light blackish coating of iron/steel residue on all 5 magnets, so I'm a happy camper indeed.
Day 1 status: Transmission removed from tractor, opened for inspection, filter changed out, no major issues observed. Lower cover removed, drilled & tapped for drain plugs, drain plugs installed, mating surfaces of lower cover and transmission case cleaned, re-sealed and re-assembled. Waiting for sealant to cure overnight before adding new Mobil-1 5w-50 Full Synthetic Oil, and testing of rebuild results. Biggest PIA was trying to remove the rear wheel hubs from the axles. No oil or 'Never-Seize' was ever added between the mating parts and SEPARATING THEM WAS BY FAR THE WORST PART OF THE JOB! Stay tuned for Day 2 updates.
Should have everything back together and running. Update & Results: Refilled tranny with Mobil-1 5w-50 synthetic oil, remounted it on the machine and made all control connections. Started engine and performed purging procedure per manufacturers instructions - no movement of axles in either forward or reverse - PANIC! Checked under machine for proper operation of drive belt - belt not moving.
Released parking brake thereby allowing motion drive idler pulleys to engage belt (Duh!). Belt now operating normally.
Tuff Torq K46 Manual
Commence purging procedure for the second time - SUCCESS! Polished up axles and slathered them with Never-Seize so the next time should be a breeze.
Tuff Torq K46
Wheels on, mower taken off of the jack stands and test-driven. Operation of transmission as designed with no growling or whining, and my subjective opinion is that the mower runs faster in both forward and reverse. In addition, the drive is more 'responsive' to a light touch on the pedals as well. One note to anyone owning a similar model mower: When the brake is released, it engages the tension on the drive idler pulleys.
Tuff Torq Hd K46 Transmission Problems
There is no tension adjustment on the motion drive pulleys so if you notice slippage from a fairly new drive belt, check the free-wheeling movement of the idler pulleys and replace any that the bearings have either seized or turn roughly. If that seems OK, check the return arm on the brake pedal where it contacts the frame plate. If there is an accumulation of grass crumbs and dust on the plate under that arm, full engagement is hindered causing slippage when going up even a minor slope. Mine had about 1/4' to 3/8' of an unbelievably hard 'adobe cement' material that it took a screwdriver to break up and scrape off. Just something else to check before blaming the belt.